You know you've hit the big-time when there are two articles about you in two of the world's most influential newspapers... within the span of three days. We're talking about Miss Lolita, naturally; she's drilled herself far deeper into the public consciousness than gyaru, decora, manba, or other Harajuku fashion tribes. Reuters and the New York Times published short articles that provide a basic overview of Lolita fashion. Here are some quotes by young women about their lifestyle; the photos are from Reuters.
Nancy Ramos: "I saw a girl dressed as a Lolita and thought it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen. She was wearing a pair of rocking-horse ballerina shoes, and I had never seen anything like them before. I was fascinated that you could walk with your heel missing."
"Our Lolita is an elegant young girl inspired by Victorian or Rococo times. They aspire to create a sense of nobility."
From A New Generation of Lolitas Makes a Fashion Statement by Dabrali Jimenez, NY Times, 08/09/26
Eriko Enokizome: "Lolita is my basic needs. Without Lolita, I cannot be myself so I'm extremely glad that I found Lolita fashion."
Chizuru Matsuda: "Gothic-Lolita fashion is like that special magic that allows me to become a different character. It's been eight years since I discovered this fashion, but it took me two years to actually complete my overall style."
Misuzu Kitahara: "I would like all Gothic-Lolita girls to refine their inner beauty first. I see a lot of girls smoking and sitting down on the floor in their outfits. I don't want them doing this."
From Lolita goes Victorian, Goth in Japan cosplay trend by Hiro Muramoto, Reuters, 08/09/29
>> September 28, 2008, 9:56 am
by
La Carmina
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Nightcrawling >>
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I'm terribly sorry for being a tardy blogger... I was nightcrawling with the J-Goths until 6am on Friday and Saturday! My apologies also for the lower quality of these photos; I didn't want to lug my DSLR to nightclubs. (You can tell I've been in Tokyo for over a week - I'm apologizing left and right.)
Above is a mash-up of Saturday's event, Midnight Mess at Shinjuku's Club Marz. I loved how 80% of the crowd looked like a Cyber/Gothic anime doll. Perhaps you recognize Fumi, Nana, and DJ Sisen from MySpace (their Medusa tendrils are respectively black/white, pink/blue, and blue/green). The blond darkling with the V-fingers is Eskil Simonsson of Covenant - yes, Covenant played a surprise show! Selia opened with mesmerizing arias; he wore a corseted kimono and feathered ram's horns. The second performance was a rap-metal band where the gasmask-wearing members suspended two half-naked girls with rope and whipped/bit/prodded them. Fail.
It was the 6th anniversary of Midnight Mess, so Selia and club organizer Maya passed around champagne and cake. Andro from GOTHIKA and Kenji Konishi from 4-D Mode1 (right photo) were the support members for Covenant's Tokyo debut. Sebastien filmed the entire performance; you can check it out on YouTube.
Friday's Gothic Bar Heaven was equally spooks-tastic. D's Valentine served as both the organizer and bartender! Sisen and Chihiro (top left) spun pounding EBM/electronic sets, and there was yet another gasmask/bondage show, this time involving hot candle wax. (Fail again.) In the back room, there were displays of handmade creepy dolls and nail art from Vampire of Rose (which I blogged about).
I love the flamboyant Gothic fashion at club nights such as these. There were several Lolitas at both events - Gothic ones, naturally. They tended to wear heavier makeup and towering platform boots. And then there's the guy with a horse head and feathered fan...
In the words of Janet from Rocky Horror, "I've tasted blood and I want more." (More more more more! ) Can't wait for upcoming nights: Skinny Puppy at the next Midnight Mess, Tokyo Decadance, Halloween extravaganzas...
Edit: My deepest thanks to the Count de Sang (with the red eyes, fangs and top hat) for the use of his photos.
† Name/URL: B. Jevanael.
† Age: 22
† Location: Canada (and Tokyo Sept. 21 - Oct. 5)
† How were you introduced to Gothic Lolita fashion?
I was in my first year of high school, and I was one of those anime geeks! It just so happened that I accidentally clicked on a link to a jrock band on my travels through a Card Captor Sakura site ring - and it was love at first sight!
† What do you find appealing about GL style and culture?
I love the expression of individuality and the mix of Japanese traditionalism in the modernization of the styles. Japan is such a fascinating place where you can find a Buddhist temple on one side of the street, and a Starbucks on the other, and it certainly shows that sense of culture in the styles.
† What are your favorite GL clothing brands?
h.NAOTO is my favourite, followed by Putumayo. Quite a mix there...
† Any other comments?
I'm a fellow writer! I'm currently writing a book which I'll be in Tokyo to conduct research for (supermandisposition.wordpress.com), about the traditionalism sneaking into the modernization of Japanese life (and part memoir! ). I recently began talks with an agent who is interested in representing me, so I'm really excited. Six novels under my belt and it took one non-fiction to hit it big, it's such a strange business!
If you would like to be the next Gothloli of the Week, please read the submission instructions here.
Patrick Macias did a fantastic recap of the Marui Individual Fashion Expo IV, so I'll just add a few notes about the live experience and my favorite looks for each brand. These runway photos are courtesy of Mainichi Online.
Minutes after the doors opened, the rows nearest the stage were filled with Lolitas. Ambient noise "music" echoed through the arena; above the stage, three screens looped an animation of water dripping as the camera moveed through doorways (giving me uncomfortable flashbacks of Brooklyn circa 2003). The lights dimmed and Marui blasted a short brand promo video set to dance music.
The girls leaned forward, gasping and whispering: Baby! The lights revealed Sweet Lolitas rocking back and forth on wooden swings... with creaking noises broadcast over a solo piano track. (It was a tad Rosemary's Baby.) The collection was standard BTSSB - pink, frills, up-dos, cute poses - but nobody tops this brand for quality and daintiness. Top looks: a bridal ensemble (above), and high-heeled boots with white furry segments and dangling fuzzy balls.
The soundtrack switches to female-fronted pop rock. Alice and the Pirates stands in a row, looking ready to plunder. I loved the clutch that resembles a crossbow, and I was overwhelmed by the final look: a long, black velvet cape with the gold logo on the back, paired with a black top hat with red feathers.
The Angelic Pretty fairy pranced out with sky-high pink hair, sweeping her magic wand and throwing a flower bouquet to the crowd. The collection is pure candy floss, and more kitschy-fun than Baby: the models waved and bobbed their heads to the music. Favorite look: a big red royal crown worn with a red winter coat. I also loved AP's knee-high lace-up red glossy boots.
Blues rock was the music of choice for Metamorphose temps de fille. Despite the animal backpacks, Metamorphose went for mature and subdued; a brown dress, a grey coat and matching hat. I thought their plaids and red boots worked best.
I was least impressed by the Kera Angel models, who entered the catwalk through a picture frame. Princess Doll's skirts were limp, and a yellow and black checkered dress fell flat. Nile Perch's casual tops and bright pink gauzy skirts reminded me of Western "scene queen" wear such as Jessica Louise and New York Couture.
The girls next to me leaned forward once again when Victorian Maiden's logo flashed on the screen. Like Patrick, I was first drawn to the dead roses clutched by the first model... but then my attention shifted to her glorious short white jacket with three horizontal military stripes down the front. Purple and magenta combinations were heavily featured. A dark romantic couple in top hats, riding uniforms and jabots strutted the stage together; the girl tripped on her way back and the next model (who wore the same high platforms) walked at a tortoise-like pace. (Note to self - avoid these boots.) Parasol lovers would have died at the beautiful black creation topped with black gauze and feathers with a trail down the side.
Models wearing Atelier Boz showed off Artherapie bags; I don't find anything special about these purses and wallets. Kanon Wakeshima graced the stage in a decadent white dress and crown. She sang in a breathy voice, enchanted me with her cello playing... and it was over much to quickly.
Twinkle, twinkle, little star... segued into punk rock music. Hangry and Angry's models stood in a line and rocked out; I liked how each label had a unique stage presence. Favorite look: a nun's headdress meets rabbit ears hat.
A French chanteuse crooned "zoom, zoom," and the catwalk turned candy-kitsch. Emily Temple Cute (above) surprised me with 1950s soda-pop wear and pointy gold heels.
The next performance was a crowd-pleasing riot: as Patrick puts it, "Visual band jealkb hit the stage with mock yaoi kisses and homocore theatrics." At rock concerts, you might sometimes pump your fist in the air, wave it around, or headbang... right? Well, jealkb had a Head + Hand Motion Leader to show us how it's done. So, there were 2400 Lolitas doing the wave and headbanging in time to the Leader... insanity! Later, Plastic Tree brought down the house. I haven't seen a solid rock performance like that in years.
Kera Arena unleashed models with red and blue strips of color in their hair. Hiderock, Hypercore, OzzCcroce and Qutie Fresh didn't impress me much, but I loved Super Lovers' tights with a giant Union Jack on one leg.
My notes start to run together at this point... Sixh emerged from strobe lights; the collection entrenches h.NAOTO as master of Goth menswear. Feathers and red petals rained from above for Peace Now and Black Peace Now; out of all the designers, BPN showed the most skin. Top look: a stunning asymmetrical black jacket.
Sexy Dynamite London brought out trademark plaids and leopard prints. Algonquins closed the show with a splash of bright red; I loved the Where's Waldo tuques.
All the performers and models gathered on stage and bowed. Red petals rained, and silver streamers shot through the air and into the audience. Final image: the Alice and the Pirates model tipped his top hat, dramatically spun around his long velvet cape... and then he was gone.
Time to head inside JCB Hall for Marui Shinjuku's Individual Fashion Expo IV! The male counterpart of Gothic Lolita (known as Kodona, Ouji, Dandy) is a rare bird, so I made a point of shooting these elegant Harajuku aristocrats. Which one would you want to be your Little Prince?
Here's another look at my new navy blue Atelier Pierrot corset-skirt. I also bought shoes: these Leche by Yosuke ankle boots were a steal at around $75. I found them on display at the Marui Shinjuku department store; Floor 7 is Gothic Lolita Rococo Punk shoe heaven. (Brace yourself for photos! )
The seats were assigned, so there wasn't a mad rush through the door. (It's nice how anybody can buy an $8 ticket and watch a 3-hour runway show, unlike the major Fashion Weeks which are invite and press-only.) Everyone received a Marui gift bag containing postcards, Goth Loli fashion and magazine promos, and Camu Camu grapefruit candies.
There was a row of retail booths in the lobby: GLP.C stationery, Arthropie bags/wallets, Kera back issues, music merchandise. A woman in a cat mask gave out heart-shaped lollipops to the girls who filed past.
And I thought I had long hair! Lolitas and Goths were the dominant "style tribes" present, but I also saw some Jesus Diamante glam girls in bouffant hairdos and heels.
BFFs in the Goth and Sweet Lolita realms.
This lady's handmade magic mushroom meets Minnie Mouse bell skirt stood out. Her little girl and boy look ready to conquer late 70s London!
Many Lolitas were quite young; I'd put these two in their early teens. There were a handful of attendees over 30, and they were equally fashionable. I love this woman's mature and refined look.
Is this us in 50 years?
Next, we'll continue our MaruiOne theme with a peek inside the department store and a review of the fashion expo.
Imagine that every single model ever featured in the Gothic & Lolita Bible came to life... and descended upon Tokyo a la Godzilla with pink frilly parasol in hand. That about sums up the crowd at yesterday's Marui Shinjuku Individual Fashion Expo. Sure, there were some jeans-wearing "normals" mixed in - but the majority of the 2000+ audience was some eye-popping permutation of Goth/Lolita/Punk.
2:15pm: I arrive at the Suidobashi subway station, and it's definitely the right stop. Near the exit, a dozen girls clutch heart-shaped purses and totter on platform heels as they wait for their friends.
I follow the frilly parasols across the street to the cylindrical structure marked Meets Port / JCB Hall. An immense lineup has already formed...
...but as Press, I bypass it. I find Patrick Macias, author of the fantastic Japanese Schoolgirl Inferno, and exchange bows with several Marui representatives. Patrick inquires about my kitty (Basil's being pampered by his grandparents) and comments on the sweltering heat, which isn't exactly friendly to the crowd's lifestyle.
Unlike the Sweet Lolita behind me, I elected to beat the heat. I'm wearing a corset-laced, high-waisted Atelier Pierrot skirt from Laforet in Harajuku; at around $150, it'll probably be my major purchase on this trip. The lacy Goth top and choker-chain-wristband are by Sinn Shop (an indie Vancouver designer).
The Marui team bestowed upon Patrick a silver Godzilla toy ("Sugoi!"). I decided to take photos of the attendees before joining him inside. In the end, the sea of Lolitas swept us apart for the entire show!
This Emily Temple cutie agreed to have her photo taken, but to her friend's amusement, she insisted on hiding her face! Surprisingly, I was one of the only non-Marui photographers around - but I spotted two Lolitas sketching the crowd.
These Angelic Pretty girls blew my mind. Where do they come from? Who are they? Where are they going? (At least we know the answer to the last Gauguin question...)
90-95% of the crowd was female and in their teens or early twenties. Most of the girls came in pairs and dressed to complement each other.
Layering and accessories overload - two staples of Harajuku street fashion - were everywhere in sight.
So much inspiration, and we haven't even gone inside the venue yet! Tomorrow, I'll post style snaps from inside JCB Hall. When Marui releases runway photos, I'll do a detailed review of the fashion expo. A little teaser: you can expect to see red boots and black/magenta combinations in the upcoming collections...
>> September 22, 2008, 7:24 pm
by
La Carmina
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La Carmina >>
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Dear readers,
I'm looking for an intern to help me with Japanese translation and speaking to businesses - see below. Please pass this along to anyone who might be interested! Thank you so much for your support. (About to head off to the Marui fashion expo... above is the current store display.)
Pop culture photographer/author looking for Japanese translator intern
I am a photographer and author in Tokyo, Japan – I’m working on a book for an American publisher that will be released worldwide next year. I am looking for an intern to help me with Japanese translation: basically, contacting business owners (via email) for permission to take photos in their establishments. I need assistance for the next 1-2 months, but possibly for the longer term (I’ll be writing a second book).
This internship is ideal for a student because you’ll get your name in a very cool pop culture/photo book, along with several free copies. I’m happy to assign college credit and write you a stellar recommendation letter (I’ve been through the Ivy League/scholarship circuits and know what admission officers look for! ) This opportunity is unpaid, but you can work from any location and on your own time, for 30 minutes to a few hours a day.
Applicants must meet the following requirements:
1) Do you have Japanese typing software? Required.
2) Are you proficient in written/spoken Japanese? I need help with English-to-Japanese translation, contacting businesses via email, and following up to schedule photoshoots. You must have at least intermediate fluency.
3) Will you have frequent Internet access? You must be able to check and respond to emails at least twice a day.
4) Have you lived in/been to Tokyo? If so, for how long and why? Knowledge of the culture and business customs is preferred.
If you fit the bill, please email me answers ASAP (gothiccarmina.at.gmail.dot.com) and a short introduction (your education, experience, anything that’s helpful). You can work from any location, since you’ll be communicating via the Internet.
Arigato and gambatte!
Update - I've started working with a Tokyo-based student. Thanks, everyone, for your emails!
