It's one thing to read about Gothic Lolita and look at fashion photos - and quite another to see it in action. Thank goodness we have YouTube. A search for "Gothic Lolita" turns up several clips from Japanese, Dutch, Austrian, and German news shows (along with the usual mish-mash of fan slideshows set to incongruous soundtracks). Here are my favorite two videos, which originated from Japanese television. You get to see Goth Lolis posing for street photos, rocking out at Visual Kei concerts, and freaking out over pretty dresses. Best part? When Moi-même-Moitié designer/musician Mana appears (first video at 3:00) and hypnotizes the news crew with his languorous come-hither arm movements. Or something.
Happy Halloween!
QUOTE FROM "KAMIKAZE GIRLS" BY NOVALA TAKEMOTO.
"I suppose that when I say clothing - and flouncy, frilly, ruffly, lacy clothing at that - is the most precious thing in my life, most people of intellect would just laugh disparagingly and call me a silly girl. I might be scolded, but never praised: dedicating myself to love, scholarship, or work is valid, they'd say, but devoting my entire being to something so trifling as clothing is nothing more than frittering away my life. But why can't I devote my life to clothing? What's wrong with treasuring encounters with clothes more than encounters with people? People have different values. I don't think the convictions and philosophies of people who become doctors to save the lives of poor people in developing countries are superior or inferior to those of someone like me, who was enchanted by the Lolita look and decided to live according to the Rococo aesthetic that is its source. And even if I was wrong about that, and my aspiration to live as a Lolita is terribly foolish, or indeed the worst thing anybody could do, I still would not renounce it. Even if everybody in the entire world agrees that something is a piece of junk, if to my eyes it appears more precious and necessary that diamonds or the giant panda, I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to defend it to the death as the most important thing in the world."
From Kamikaze Girls (Shimotsuma Monogatari) by Novala Takemoto, trans. Akemi Wegmuller (VIZ Media LLC, February 14, 2006), 41-42.
Photo from the Kamikaze Girls film starring Kyôko Fukada (as Momoko) and Anna Tsuchiya (as Ichigo).
CLAUDIA FROM INTERVIEW WITH THE VAMPIRE.
If you’re looking for Gothic Lolita inspiration, look no further than the character Claudia from the 1994 film Interview with the Vampire. Claudia, played by twelve-year-old Kirsten Dunst, is an orphan who is made into a vampire child by Louis (Brad Pitt) and Lestat (Tom Cruise). Hot-tempered and spoiled, she takes pleasure in toying with her victims before drinking their blood. (“A little child she was, but also a fierce killer, now capable of the ruthless pursuit of blood, with all a child's demanding.”) Claudia grows distraught because although her mind matures, she remains forever trapped in a child’s body. After failing to kill Lestat, she flees with Louis and is trapped by a coven of vampires, which exposes her to direct sunlight.
In my favorite scene, Claudia is standing in front of a mirror in a half-finished lace dress. The dressmaker pricks her hand; Claudia brings it to her lips to “kiss it better.” Later, Lestat discovers the dressmaker lying dead at her feet. He taps her hand lightly in punishment: “Claudia, Claudia, now who will we get to finish your dress? These impracticalities, cherie! Remember: never in the home.”
Fortunately, Claudia does not kill all of her tailors. In the movie, she models a sumptuous late 18th to late 19th century French wardrobe. Her empire dresses and voluminous coats are made of silk/velvet/satin, and generously trimmed with lace. Unlike the adult vampires, Claudia does not dress in black; her clothes tend to be off-white, sky blue, or light green. She frequently wears capes and wraps her blonde ringlets in ribboned bonnets.
Louis: You see that old woman? That will never happen to you. You will never grow old, and you will never die.
Claudia: And it means something else too, doesn't it? I shall never ever grow up.
GURO LOLITA HALLOWEEN COSTUME.
Halloween is by FAR my favorite holiday, but it’s not about the candy (would I ever eat that much refined sugar? ) No, it’s all about playing dress-up. Once a year, the (club) kids have license to over-kill on clothes and makeup, and the parties are consistently outrageous.
First stop: Day de la Dead costume fiesta at the Columbia in Vancouver. I went as a Guro Lolita - a torn and bloody doll, poorly re-stitched and patched with gauze.
The costumes were uber-impressive this year; check out more party photos on Lindsay's Diet!
WESTMEND GOTHIC LOLITA PHOTO SHOOT.
A Gothic Lolita fashion shoot, featuring clothes from Chinese brand Westmend.
Dress: Westmend store in Vancouver's Metrotown.
Ankle boots: MB Shoes from Kris + Cris shoe store in Vancouver, Canada.
Veil: Vintage store in Grass Valley, CA.
Wristband: VIP wristband from the Heist CMJ Party.
Dress: Westmend store in Vancouver's Metrotown.
Shoes: From Hong Kong.
Pearl necklace: Mikimoto.
See more La Carmina pics on Flickr and MySpace.
Dress: Westmend store in Vancouver's Metrotown.
Ankle boots: MB Shoes from Kris + Cris shoe store in Vancouver, Canada.
Veil: Vintage store in Grass Valley, CA.
Wristband: VIP wristband from the Heist CMJ Party.
Dress: Westmend store in Vancouver's Metrotown.
Shoes: From Hong Kong.
Pearl necklace: Mikimoto.
See more La Carmina pics on Flickr and MySpace.
WESTMEND STORE OPENS IN VANCOUVER.
I think I officially qualify for the Manba Club (smelly, homeless Japanese club kids in platforms and garish makeup) after surviving this year's CMJ indie music festival. Dandi Wind's performance was exhilarating, and the Deerhunter party turned out to be more of an adventure than expected (see party photos on ShadowScene and Last Night's Party ). My toy spider pin got a range of reactions...
Grand Central: "Hey! Freaky girl!"
Whole Foods: "Is that... real?" (woman's face registers fear and loathing)
Time Warner Center: "Bwahahah!"
Various streets of NYC: "Nice hat!" "Miss, there's a spider on your hat!"
St. Mark's Place: "You made that? You should start selling those."
L train from Bedford to 6th Ave: "Hi. I had to say hi to you because of what you're wearing." (made a new friend)
Billy's Bakery on W23rd: "Miss, you're good. It's on the house." (got a free cupcake)
I walked all over NYC and didn't come across a single store that specialized in Gothic Lolita fashion. Same deal with LA (although I drove, naturally). Now I'm in Vancouver, and what do I find in the mega-mall, Metrotown? A boutique called Westmend, filled exclusively with Lolita-wear. I guess it's true - you never have to leave home.
Westmend hails from China, and this is the brand's first store in North America. The salesgirls say sales are strong; I spent an hour in the store and saw a half-dozen girls try on clothes. Expect the Westmend store to last, especially if I keep coming back! I left with two Gothic Lolita dresses, a skirt, and a blouse (expect photos soon). Items fit tightly, especially in the shoulders/arms - I usually wear Small but bought everything in Medium. Westmend's Lolita clothes are well constructed; the dresses are lined, the skirts hang nicely, and many items come with detachable accessories. Prices are reasonable, and mostly range from $70-250.
I can rattle off a hundred reasons why people should visit Vancouver (coffeeshops, wild salmon, whale-watching, Stanley Park, the Grouse Grind...) And now, a new addition to the list: Westmend.
GOTHIC LOLITA NECKWEAR.
You’ll often see old-fashioned neckties and ruffs on Lolita blouses. From whence do they come?
Neckties (cravats) burst onto the scene a few hundred years ago, with the flamboyant Louis XIV as their champion. During his reign, Croatian soldiers fought alongside the French in the war against the Ottomans. In 1660, a Croatian regiment was presented as heroes to Louis XIV. The fashion-savvy king was tickled by the silk neck cloths that these officers wore around their necks. He adopted the style and even created an elite French regiment called the Cravate Royale. (Many think the word “cravat” is derived from “Croat,” but it may also be a corruption of rabat, which is French for a hanging collar.)
Much like with fashion today, this new style spread from Paris and became the rage in England. By the late 17th century, fashionistas had come up with a hundred knots and variations on the cravat. Tasseled strings, tufts and bows of ribbon, lace, beads, embroidered linen – you name it. (Photo: top right; bottom center and right)
In the 18th century, the jabot took center stage. These cravats feature billowing layers of lace, and they button up at the back of the neck. (Photo: top center and left)
In the Victoria and Romantic eras (19th century), cravats became more casual and gradually shrank into smaller, loosely-tied bows. (Photo: bottom left) Today, we rarely see anything but the simple long tie – but Gothic Lolita neck-decor is bringing back the Baroque. The Sun King must be beaming from his grave.
Neckties (cravats) burst onto the scene a few hundred years ago, with the flamboyant Louis XIV as their champion. During his reign, Croatian soldiers fought alongside the French in the war against the Ottomans. In 1660, a Croatian regiment was presented as heroes to Louis XIV. The fashion-savvy king was tickled by the silk neck cloths that these officers wore around their necks. He adopted the style and even created an elite French regiment called the Cravate Royale. (Many think the word “cravat” is derived from “Croat,” but it may also be a corruption of rabat, which is French for a hanging collar.)
Much like with fashion today, this new style spread from Paris and became the rage in England. By the late 17th century, fashionistas had come up with a hundred knots and variations on the cravat. Tasseled strings, tufts and bows of ribbon, lace, beads, embroidered linen – you name it. (Photo: top right; bottom center and right)
In the 18th century, the jabot took center stage. These cravats feature billowing layers of lace, and they button up at the back of the neck. (Photo: top center and left)
In the Victoria and Romantic eras (19th century), cravats became more casual and gradually shrank into smaller, loosely-tied bows. (Photo: bottom left) Today, we rarely see anything but the simple long tie – but Gothic Lolita neck-decor is bringing back the Baroque. The Sun King must be beaming from his grave.
