UNVOLLKOMMEN: JAPANESE DARK PIERROT CLOTHING AND BLOOD VISUAL KEI OUTFITS.


With a snowy fleck of shining moonlight
On the shoulder of his black silk frock-coat
So walks out Pierrot this languid evening,
Seeking everywhere for love's adventure.

“Der Mondfleck,” from Arthur Schoenberg’s Pierrot Lunaire
Dark pierrot Japanese Gothic fashion by Unvollkommen, an Osaka label.
Pierrot is the sad clown in traditional mime and theater, typically wearing a white tunic with a giant ruff, and white facepaint with black diamond-shaped eyeliner. If you ask me, one of the most striking Goth Loli-related fashions is “dark pierrot.” Adherents draw upon the lovelorn clown's imagery and highlight its most tragic and disturbing facets.

Unvollkommen, a collective led by “Luciferrot,” specializes in this type of design. The Osaka-based label has a German name that means "defective" or "imperfect." This word usually has a negative quality, but for these designers, it is the space where unexpected beauty lies:

"We do not look for perfection, but for the beauty of the unique and rare. We strongly encourage people who are physically unique to have pride in themselves and the beauty they possess. In this respect, people who are shorter or taller than average (as if averageness is a quality!!! bah!!! ), or asymmetrical in some way we openly embrace and encourage them to stand up and be proud!!"

True to their manifesto, Unvollkommen's clothes tend to use dirty pastels (greyish whites, dull pinks and greens) and black-and-white diamond prints, garnished with lush satin and floral trimmings. Nothing here is “average”: hats have giant floppy brims and are stacked with fruit, floor-length gowns have puffed sleeves the size of balloons. Each item is one of a kind and handmade from vintage materials.
Homemade Gothic Lolita bible magazine: sewing patterns for clothes and accessories.
Recently, Unvollkommen designed outfits for Japanese Visual/gothic crossover band Blood. In a time when concept albums have bitten the dust, this band has gone through several all-encompassing image changes since forming in 2002: vampires, Les Fleurs du Mal by Baudelaire, and now, Symphony of Chaos. Unvollkommen’s aesthetic fits hand in glove with the band's new direction, which can be described as decadent Gothic. If you live in Japan or Australia, you can see Blood's stage outfits up close, as they are performing in several cities this spring and summer.

Unvollkommen's clothing and accessories can be ordered from its new English-language website; all items can be custom-made to fit. Take a peek at the gallery of designs. I bet it'll be raddest thing you see all week.


DIY CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES: LOLIPOP LOLITA FASHIONS.


Homemade Gothic Lolita bible magazine: sewing patterns for clothes and accessories.
Punk Loli is a less prominent Lolita category, but it perhaps strikes closest to a key attitude of the fashion – Do-It-Yourself. An intrepid Loli isn’t daunted by a $400 Mary Magdalene dress – she’ll roll up her lacy sleeves and sew one of her own! As usual, the Bible provides guidance: the magazine’s “homemade” editions include patterns and instructions for making elegant outfits and accessories. (If only stores outside Japan sold lace and trimmings like the ones pictured above…) Both the style and creative process are throwbacks to the days when all clothes were hand-tailored. Consequently, many Lolitas have set up shop in their bedrooms, complete with sewing machines and mannequins.
Lolipop Lolita Fashions handmade jewelry and accessories.
Some have turned their passion into a business. Lollie from Lolipop Lolita Fashions was inspired by the gosurori outfits she saw at anime conventions. She says: “The reason I decided to start my shop is I noticed that Lolita seems to have faded into a generic look. My idea was to bring back individuality and originality back the Lolita fashion. That's why every single piece of jewelry is original and one of a kind.”

Like many young designers, Lollie has taken advantage of her net-savvy to sell to customers worldwide. At the moment, Lolipop Lolita is only being sold online, but she will soon set up booths at anime and Japanese conventions. Lollie is also developing a clothing line of Plus Sized originals – an excellent idea, considering the lack of availability in the current market.

It’s always inspiring to meet Lolita designers who have combine creativity and entrepreneurship. You can check out Lollie’s MySpace and reach her at lolipoplolitafashions@yahoo.com


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