99% of the time, I'm the Goth-est person in the room. So it was a shock to the system when I arrived at the "Gothic: Dark Glamour" fashion exhibit opening at FIT (New York's Fashion Institute of Technology) - and everyone looked like a Dracula movie extra.
I knew I'd be surrounded by Vampiras in floor-sweeping skirts. Rather than play "Gother Than Thou," I did a wardrobe remix: a black chain skirt (from my h.NAOTO DIY) worn as a top over my silver disco dress (from a NYC sample sale), and spider-print 3/4 length leggings (from the Krazy! gallery preview). My lace collar has a danging crucifix and is attached to my wrist cuff by a silver chain ($45 from Sinn Shop, a Vancouver indie designer). I guess it worked - I was snapped by party photographer Patrick McMullan along with attendees Derek Lam, Lars Nilsson, Tom Scott, and Thom Browne.
In the main hall, the guests sipped bloody cocktails and fought over the meager hors d'oeuvres. I rolled my eyes at a man dressed in a Norma Desmond fur dressing-gown who slinked around the Lip Service display, pink cosmo in hand. While I was thrilled by the personal style of the "lifestyle Goths" (such as this trio), it was disconcerting to see NYC's ubiquitous nightlife socialites (such as Andre J and Patrick McDonald) dressed in over-the-top Goth for the sake of the cameras. A stake through the heart of undead fashion...
"Hold on to the rail! Don't trip!" called out the guard as the guests shuffled down two flights of stairs. The intro gallery was my favorite part of the exhibit; four vignettes traced the style to 18th century Gothic literature and the Victorian cult of mourning. A "Cabinet of Curiosities" displayed the death mask of a poet next to momento mori jewelry.
A crucifix-studded iron cage formed the focal point of the main room. Over 75 mannequins stood in dramatic mise-en-scenes, suggesting iconic Goth settings (castles, laboratories, labyrinths) and sub-styles (cyber, steampunk, Lolita).
My friend Kyshah Hell, who interviewed me for the Morbid Outlook article on gosurori, had several of her club outfits on display. She was in the company of McQueen, Lagerfeld, Galliano, Givenchy, Lacroix...
...and h.NAOTO, who contributed a gorgeous Lolita corset and skirt, accessorized with an Angry the cat plush toy (bottom right). The living dead included a young Lolita and artist/designer Voltaire (top right), who took off his jacket to reveal a shirt stained with blood!
I hope I'll have the time to re-visit the Gothic fashion exhibit and soak it all in - an impossible task on opening night. Fortunately, it runs through February 21, 2009. Need another excuse to high-tail it to NYC? FIT is also offering a range of public programs, including a Tim Burton film series, an Oct. 30 "Goth Talk" panel, and readings from Bram Stoker and Edgar Allan Poe.
Gothic: Dark Glamour exhibit
The Museum at FIT
Runs: Sept 5, 2008 to Feb 21, 2009
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Sunday, Monday and legal holidays.
Goldie recently did some loli-ish nail designs (all hand painted with a brush) that she thought might interest or inspire you. Beautiful work!
