>> July 7, 2008, 9:14 am
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Kawaii - that distinctly Japanese take on cuteness - burst into my life early on. Every time I made a family trip to Asia, I'd return with a few Kitty-chans in tow. (This photo was taken in 2003, when I had purple hair! ) I went through the Sanrio roster: Keroppi, Pochacco, Chococat... By the time I entered grade school, my motto was "kawaii or bust." I turned my nose at school-issue agendas and pencil cases from Sears (these were the days before Staples). My stationery, my toys, my clothes - everything had to have a Sanrio character on it.
Alas, decora is only kosher in Japan. By 1996, I'd moved on to Goth/alternative wear - but the vestiges remained and eventually harmonized into Gothic Lolita. It's a fashion, it's refined, and yet still carries a heavy dose of kawaii (think Hangry & Angry or Metamorphose's bunny and bear mascots).
A perfect example is this "Nya" black cat cell charm and fuzzy pouch by Ne-Net, a whimsical Japanese designer that presented at the last Tokyo Fashion Week. Look at the design and quality; nobody would mistake this for kid's stuff.
Now check out Body Line's rabbit rucksacks, which are sold by Cosmates Japan. The earrings and crucifix add Goth Loli flair, but otherwise, I don't have anything nice to say about these cheap-looking synthetic leather bags. We're entering the realm of cosplay... and h.NAOTO does animal purses so much better!
Walking the line between child's play and couture is tougher than one might think. How much kawaii do you let into your outfits?
>> July 6, 2008, 12:33 am
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All of us could use some Sex Pot Revenge... especially when it's modelled by Japanese punk boys! (Ok, some of them are girls... some of them are in between...)
SEX POT ReVeNGE... is a wild punk clothing brand based out of Harajuku. Stripes, plaid, rips, tears and the like are all recurring themes.
SEX POT ReVeNGE... frequently appears in KERA magazine and collaborates with Visual Kei/J-rock bands - including Antic Cafe, Phantasmagoria, Vidoll, and 12012.
SEX POT ReVeNGE... is available worldwide from online retailer CD Japan! You can purchase some of the cutsew tops, tanks, and bottoms pictured.
Or you can be crafty and slash up your own shirts. Try cutting holes, dripping paint, adding safety pins, and sewing on zippers and chains.
Don't you love the skeleton gloves attached to the sleeve by a chain?
>> June 24, 2008, 2:34 pm
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2008 may go down as the Goth Loli equivalent of 1854, the year Commodore Perry's "Black Ships" forced the opening of Japan to the outside world. All right, perhaps I'm hyperbolizing... but my beloved h.NAOTO has just joined Angelic Pretty, Mary Magdalene, BTSSB, and Metamorphose in extending shipping to overseas buyers!
On the new SES (S-inc) international online shop, you can browse and order items from the brands h.NAOTO, gouk, and Hangry & Angry. The website is in English... arguably. Some of the translations are eyebrow-raisers; the description for gouk, the Japanese (Wa)-inspired line, sounds like something you'd find in a fortune cookie: "Spread your old feelings, look back at the footsteps of you've walked through." Gong!
Here's another great "Engrish" caption: "Hangry is a girl who wishes for peacefll life but loves to wear punk fashion." Hmm, isn't Hangry (above) a boy? I suppose gender categories are more fluid in the Visual Kei world...
And then there's "Angry who loves sweet gothic&lolita fashion but is very savage towards Hangry." She certainly has a sadistic bent; I posted before about how she chopped up her "angel" counterpart in a comic. Here she is in various plush toy guises. The Circus Master outfit (bottom center) is an original take on grotesque-cute.
h.NAOTO is master of the animal-shaped purses and shoulder bags; they're a perfect mix of shredded punk and kawaii. The button-eyed rabbit (bottom left) is an inspired cell phone holder!
h.NAOTO's latest Gothic & Lolita designs have his trademark layering of sheer fabrics over black and white prints. I much prefer his delicate tops to the poofy-sleeved button-downs that many Lolita designers make.
Rush over to h.NAOTO's English-language online store - many of the items have already sold out. The site only accepts PayPal and offers shipping to 40 countries. I won't be opening my wallet, as the already-pricey items are quite marked up. Have no fear - I'll post a DIY solution in the next few days. Stay tuned!
>> June 22, 2008, 11:53 am
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Around the turn of the last century, I was obsessed with buying and selling on eBay. 'Twas the late 90s, and the WWW was still the Wild Wild West. I turned quite a profit (someone paid hundreds for my New Kids On The Block memorabilia) but once eBay added listing fees and tightened regulations, my interest waned...
...and I hardly logged on to the auction site until last month, when my friend sent me a link to an ultra-Goth gutta percha rosary (it was a steal at $15). One click led to another and I soon found myself back on the wagon. My search for "gothic lolita" turned up about 2,000 results, most of which are cheap costumes or mislabeled goods. However, mixed in are some eye-catching Goth/Punk/Visual gems - particularly from the aptly-named retailer, Refuse To Be Usual.
It's hard to pare down my favorites - there are hundreds of items listed - but the handmade Gothic Doll jewelry definitely makes the cut. Aren't these linked rings with dangling crucifixes charming? I bought the black and red one (middle photo) for $20. Seller Nicky responded quickly and lived up to her A+ customer service record.
The lace-and-chain cuffs look like they hopped straight out of Kera Magazine. Each piece has two size adjustments and is designed for comfort.
The cherub wings are made from real white feathers - and guaranteed to attract attention. You can detach the link between the collar and cuff.
Oh goodness! I swoon at the sight of lace jabots and ruffled ties. Perhaps I'll sew one for myself...
And how crazy cute are these Hysteric Japan puppet doll shoulder bags? The torso zips up, while the rabbit's head and limbs are stuffed.
Check out more Harajuku style from Refuse To Be Usual's eBay store - but don't blame me if you lose a few hours and your last paycheck!
>> June 18, 2008, 5:02 pm
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Whenever I need lookbook inspiration, I turn to Jane Marple - no, not the elderly English sleuth, but the Japanese Classic Lolita brand that bears her name. Jane Marple always puts together enticing previews, and the one for the Spring and Summer 2008 Collection is no exception.
All of the prints and products are united by a common theme: "Very Merry." Once again, Jane Marple delivers a vivid range of fabrics: the Beatlemania-inspired "British Logo" series, spilling cherries, a breezy "Liberty Print," and "Angel Lace" reminiscent of metallically-printed curtain laces from the early 20th century.
Jane Marple's promo shots are perhaps the most striking among the Lolita-affiliated designers (with stiff competition from h.NAOTO and Peace Now). I wonder if Photoshop is responsible for the backdrop and dress prints?
I've compiled fabric swatches and sample items from Jane Marple's spring/summer 2008 collection. (For more, check out the flash lookbook and series concept.)
"Chelsea Cat" is "full of nostalgia and smiles." This is my favorite of the bunch - and the brown cat purse is too cute for words! (It should be called the Basil Farrow bag.)
The "Big Dot" series carries on the bright, poppy 1960s vibe.
"Rose with Flowers" is inspired by colonial table cloths and high-summer picnics.
Part II of the collection is titled "Dans Le Salon." The mood: "stereoscopic and free expressions with layer patterns on deep, picturesque flower prints." This one - "Wallpaper Flower" - is not my cup of tea. It looks like something a New Age granny would wear.
The "Handkerchief Collection" pieces together six different handkerchiefs into a giant panel print. Not my favorite either.
"Fruit Picnic" evokes a 1970s wistful romanticism.
"Trick Ribbon Stripes" goes preppy with ribbon motives hidden in hand-drawn stripes.
Out of the above, I say "groovy, baby!" to the British mod prints. What are your picks and pans?
>> June 8, 2008, 8:14 pm
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Once upon a time (okay, back in 2004), La Carmina could have been mistaken for Leeloo or Run Lola Run. Since then, my hair has moved on to less Day-Glo pastures; a red dye stain on a new white leather jacket was the final nail in the coffin. Alas, I can't help reminiscing about my fiery-haired days after flipping through Kera Magazine (#11). This Lolita-meets-Punk issue is pinker than a flamingo dipped in cotton candy.
Is pink hair reserved for girly-girls? Not when finger-less motorcycle gloves, fishnets, and biker boots are in the mix. Algonquins Addiction matches the model's pink extensions with punky plaids; what do you think of the silver moon boots?
Pink locks will inevitably stand out in a room, but you can create a different impact through styling. Kera contrasts "soft" and "hard" dos; the latter is achieved with dramatic eye makeup and teased, punky piles of hair.
This spread is titled "Rock and Rose" for self-explanatory reasons. The outfits are a hodge-podge of Algonquins, BTSSB, HellCatPunks, and Super Lovers. A stellar look, but my brain hurts from so many visual elements. (Can you spot five bows, a cherry, a poodle, a key, two flowers, two crucifixes, and seven belts/chains? )
To achieve this "Red x Rock" look, apply black pencil around the eyes, then add red eyeshadow with a makeup brush. Eyebrows and lips are kept subtle to avoid a "tranny clown" look. On the left: a cute backpack from Hundred Club x HellCatPunks.
Other ways to dress up pink hair: Kera suggests a DIY black hat topped with a rose, or a fiery plaid skirt and faux-fur collared jacket from Sex Pot Revenge.
Everyone's living la vie en rose! From left to right: Alice and the Pirates, Metamorphose temps de fille, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Toxic Star.
>> June 6, 2008, 5:48 pm
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Wa Lolita is one of the minority denizens of the Lolita universe. The subset mixes traditional Japanese garb (such as the kimono and its casual summer variant, the yukata) with Loli styling (lace shirring, capes, the usual drill). The variation appeared relatively early on - the Gothic & Lolita Bible did a Wa Loli photoshoot with Kana - but hasn't exactly boarded the popularity train. h.NAOTO's East collection appears to have been discontinued, and the major Lolita brands rarely add a token Wa to their Sweet, Gothic, Classical and Punk lineups.
Leave it to the indies to pick up the slack. The small Japanese brand Lacrima (not to be confused with yours truly, La Carmina ) calls itself a "kimono dress factory" and specializes in Wa Lolita works of art. Lacrima masterfully fuses the richest elements of the two styles: rich, traditional florals decorated with white lace, layered capelets with wide kimono sleeves, criss-cross corset lacing on the wide obi (sash). I think this hybrid is more striking but less accessible than Sweet and Gothic - perhaps because the latter two aren't too far removed from historical European styling? I can picture a Juliette et Justine dress on Madame de Pompadour - but I'm hard pressed to imagine anyone in Wa Lolita other than a Japanese doll.
Still, these garments are breathtaking. Check out Lacrima's website for close-ups of the intricate construction. Tell them La Carmina sent you!
